By Tony Traficante, La Nostra Voce
The Feast of the Seven Fishes, our Italian American Christmas tradition, has become an international celebration. My friends often wish they were Italian by the time I finish describing the menu to them.
It was southern Italian and Sicilian immigrants, longing for the seafood catch along their homeland’s coastal waters, who helped launch this meatless “Vigilia di Natale” family buffet here in the States.
This article first appeared in La Nostra Voce, ISDA’s monthly newspaper that chronicles Italian American history, culture and traditions. Subscribe today.
I remember the aroma of the fish and fried dough my mother prepared throughout the day. “L’aroma era meraviglioso.”
Christmas Eve menus were different for every family. At our house, we had roasted capitone, purpadilli, calamari stuffed with breading, baccalà, smelts, and “merluzzo.” There were also two types of pasta, one with sauce and one with “alici” (anchovies). Eventually, Mom added “pesci merican” (shrimp) for the newer generation.
It’s not clear how seven became the magic number, but usually, the volume of fish was based on the wealth of the family, and the religious connotations.
Some families served nine, 11, or even 13 types of fish and/or seafood. The reasons and explanations always intrigued me. Seven fish could represent the seven days it took God to create the world. Or it’s the Seven Hills of Rome. Others might have associated the number seven with the seven sacraments, the seven sins, or even the Seven Virtues of the Roman Catholic religion. Nine is said to represent the Holy Trinity, multiplied by three. The number 11 is presumed to represent the Apostles minus Judas, and 13 might have translated to the 12 Apostles, plus Jesus.
No matter the number or assortment, it would all be washed down with “Un bicchiero di vino bianco!”
“Aspetta!” Wait! There was more to Christmas Eve dinner than fish and pasta. In addition, there was a selection of “contorni e dolce,” sides and sweets. Imagine a table laden with torrone, panettone, finocchio, and cuscini (fried pillows filled with mashed ceci, chestnuts, chocolate, and cinnamon). There’s also matzazulli (crunchy, dark cookies made with jelly, molasses, and other stuff), taralli, and fichi.
Lastly, before Midnight Mass, all that food was topped off with espresso, coffee and “una coccia d’anisette.” (And perhaps even a tall glass of brioschi).
The tradition of the Seven Fishes has been passed down through generations and spread around the world. There’s more to it than just sampling fish. It’s about bringing family, friends and faith under one roof.
Ciao, buon feste, buon pranzo e buon salute a tutti!
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